The storied history of the men’s suits — a tale woven with threads of elegance, innovation, and societal shifts. Truly, a journey worth embarking upon. So button up, my friend, as we traverse the corridors of time to explore how the suit has evolved into the sartorial symbol it is today.
The Early Foundations: 17th Century Predecessors
Our journey begins in the 17th century with the justaucorps — a long coat worn by European aristocracy. Fashion was a flamboyant affair; think lace cuffs, waistcoats, breeches, and wigs. The look was meticulously elaborate, but also cumbersome.
In 1666, King Charles II of England declared a more restrained approach to menswear, favoring simpler, knee-length coats, waistcoats, and breeches. This laid the foundations for what would eventually become the modern suit.
Suit Etiquette: Splendor and Start
And, let’s not forget the etiquette and lace up our brogues and step through time to see how each era’s sartorial etiquette shaped the dapper gents of their day, and how those lessons formed the bedrock of modern suiting.
In the 17th century, suit etiquette was about showcasing wealth and status. Lavish justaucorps were accessorized with lace cravats, knee breeches, and buckled shoes. Young men learned early on the importance of making an impression with elaborate attire.
They wore powdered wigs to signify social rank and maturity. While these outfits were cumbersome, they set the precedent for fashion as a form of social signaling.
Tip for the time: Always ensure your cravat is perfectly starched and your wig is powdered just right. A droopy cravat was practically a social faux pas.
The Birth of the Modern Suit: 19th Century
Fast forward to the early 19th century. Here we meet Beau Brummell, the original dandy and a pivotal figure in the history of menswear. Brummell championed understated elegance, favoring dark, perfectly fitted wool coats, impeccably starched cravats, and full-length trousers over the frilly excesses of the past.
His influence was so profound that the modern suit began its journey towards the minimalist masterpiece we recognize today.
Brummell’s Legacy
Beau Brummell’s influence in the early 19th century shifted focus to fit and cleanliness – the dawn of dandyism. For young men, sports jackets and lounging suits with more relaxed styles became common in an informal setting, while fitted frock coats and waistcoats were essential for formal appearances. The emphasis was on immaculate presentation and minimalism.
A well-polished boot and an impeccably tied cravat were non-negotiable. Brummell famously stated that taking five hours to dress was a sign of thorough preparation.
The Jazz Age: 1920s and 1930s
The Roaring Twenties – an era of opulence and change. Menswear saw a burst of color and bolder patterns. The double-breasted suit became quite prominent, often featuring wider lapels and dramatic pinstripes. Suits were tailored to emphasize the masculine V-shape: broad shoulders, slim waist, and narrow hips. This period was all about making a statement.
Functional Elegance
By the early 20th century, especially around the 1920s, suits became more pragmatic yet robustly stylish. Etiquette emphasized the completeness of one’s attire – a three-piece suit for formal contexts and looser fits for leisure.
Young men were taught that their suits should fit flawlessly across the shoulders, waist, and legs without pulling or sagging.
Ensure your pocket watch chain is visible yet discrete, and always carry a handkerchief. It’s the little details that showcase refinement.
Post-World War II: The Man in the Grey Flannel Suit
Post World War II, the ethos of the suit shifted towards conservatism and conformity. The “Man in the Grey Flannel Suit” became a symbol of corporate America. Slimmer cuts, conservatively muted colors, and less flamboyant details dominated the 1950s. This was the era where the suit truly became the uniform of the business world.
Uniform Precision Etiquette
Post World War II, the suit etiquette leaned heavily towards uniformity and precision. The Man-in-the-Grey era trained young men to value sharp lines and subtlety over flamboyance.
Conservative cuts in dark, solid colors were the norm, and lapel width was a controlled evolutionary step.
Less is more. Avoid excessive flair and focus on perfect fits. Your tie knot should be precise, typically a smaller Windsor or Four-in-Hand.
The Swinging Sixties and Seventies
Then came the swinging sixties, with its penchant for rebellion and experimentation. Savile Row, already famed for its bespoke tailoring traditions, began to influence mainstream fashion. Tailors like Tommy Nutter and Edward Sexton introduced bold, wide-lapelled suits often made from unconventional fabrics and vivid colors. The 1970s carried forward this trend, adding flared trousers and relaxed fits.
Individuality Emerges: Here Comes the Light
The 1960s and 1970s saw an explosion of individuality. Etiquette relaxed to accommodate personal expression but retained the importance of coordination. Young men were educated in the art of mixing and matching bold prints and colors without clashing — a fine line indeed!
Confidence carries the ensemble. Wide lapels, flared trousers, and patterned shirts are your playground, but always ensure they complement each other.
The 1980s: Power Suits and Excess
Enter the 1980s: the age of power dressing and excess. The power suit, characterized by its broad shoulders, sharp lines, and often pinstriped patterns, embodied the ambitious spirit of corporate warriors. This was the era of Giorgio Armani revolutionizing the unstructured jacket, emphasizing comfort without sacrificing style.
Power Dressing
The 1980s brought in the power suit, where the etiquette was about making a strong statement – literally. Young men learned that broad shoulders and bold pinstripes symbolized ambition. The mantra was to dress not just for the job you have, but for the job you want.
Shoulder pads are your friends, just don’t overdo it. The tie should always be bold and your dress shoes polished to a mirror finish.
The Nineties and Beyond: Minimalism to Modern-Day
As the 20th century drew to a close, fashion swung towards minimalism. The suits of the 1990s and early 2000s were cleaner, with slimmer cuts and fewer frills. High-end designers like Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme redefined the silhouette with razor-sharp tailoring.
Nowadays, suit etiquette champions versatility and personal style. Today’s young men are raised to understand that fit is paramount, but personalization is key. Suits are tailored slim, but not restrictive, and mixing textures and patterns has become an art form.
Don’t be afraid to mix a wool blazer with chinos, or pair your suit with stylish sneakers for a smart-casual look. Keep it sleek, crisp, and genuine to your style.
Progressive Reads for the Sartorially Inclined
For those hungry for deeper dives into suiting and fashion etiquette, here’s a curated selection of books to enhance your knowledge:
- “Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion” by Alan Flusser: A definitive guide on timeless men’s style.
- “Savile Row: The Master Tailors of British Bespoke” by James Sherwood: Delve into the history and craftsmanship of the iconic Savile Row.
- “The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men’s Style” by Nicholas Antongiavanni: Offers witty and insightful strategies for crafting your personal style.
- “Gentleman: A Timeless Fashion” by Bernhard Roetzel: A visual treat, covering everything a modern gentleman needs to know about classic men’s fashion.
Today’s Landscape: Versatility and Individuality
In our contemporary era, the suit has evolved to mirror our more relaxed and individualistic society. While classic navy and charcoal suits remain staples, there’s greater freedom to experiment with cuts, colors, and fabrics.
Tailoring technology has advanced, allowing for the perfect bespoke fit at more accessible price points. The rise of smart casual has incorporated elements like the unstructured blazer, and we see renewed enthusiasm for vintage-inspired designs.
Each era’s etiquette has subtly stitched the evolution of the modern suit, an iconic garment that continues to adapt and thrive. Embrace its legacy and wear your suit like the masterpiece it truly is.
From the elaborate justaucorps to the sharp lines of today, the men’s suit has not just weathered centuries of change — it has thrived. It has been a canvas for expressing societal norms, personal identity, and professional stature. The suit is more than just clothing; it’s a symbol of history, art, and self-expression rolled into one.
